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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.